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Split Toning. Before & After.

2013-05-16 17:40:00 GMT

Split toning is a powerful technique originating in film photography to tint the highlights and shadows.

The Split Tone tool gives you creative control over the Hue and Saturation of your highlights and shadows. Use the sliders to adjust the balance of tones in the highlights and shadows of your photos. Split toning allows you to add a creative element to RAW conversion and non-destructive editing in ACDSee Pro 6.

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To adjust the Highlights & Shadows
1. In Develop mode, select the Tune tab.
2. Drag the sliders to apply colored highlights and shadows as described below.

Note: you can right-click a slider to reset to the default value.



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Adjustment Options
Highlights

Hue: Drag the slider to the right to select a highlight color.
Saturation: Drag the slider to the right to increase saturation of the color in the highlights of the image.



Shadows

Hue: Drag the slider to the right to select a shadow color.
Saturation: Drag the slider to the right to increase saturation of the color in the shadows of the image.

Balance

Drag the slider to the right to emphasize the highlight color; drag the slider to the left to emphasize the shadow color. For example if the slider is set to the maximum at 50, then full emphasis is applied to the highlight color; if the slider is set to the minimum -50, then full emphasis is applied to the shadow color.

Note: You can save your settings as a preset for future use.

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Shooting Sunsets

2013-04-24 18:46:00 GMT

By ACDSee pro photographer & guest blogger Serge Timacheff

Taking good and interesting photos of sunsets requires a little planning for your equipment, your position, and your camera settings. On my recent travels to Porec, Croatia and Venice, Italy, I had the opportunity to play with a few sunset shots.

If you have the luxury of time—meaning you can observe a sunset one evening and know that the next night you’ll be able to be in the same position with similar weather patterns—you can more easily plan your shot. The sun rarely goes simply up-and-down on the horizon; typically it goes at an angle. It’s a good idea to shoot a sunset with some geographical context, such as trees, water, buildings, etc. on Earth, to emphasize the sun’s enormity and give it some perspective. I was close to water for both sunsets, and in each case I was able to observe the sunset one evening and then come back to that spot and shoot the next day.

Telephoto lenses are great for capturing a dramatic sunset because they collapse distance and will make the sun look much larger on the horizon. A wide-angle lens, while it may capture a beautifully colored sky, will tend to make the sun look much smaller. So if it’s a big, beautiful sinking sun you want as your primary subject, telephoto is the way to go.

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In the first photos, taken in Porec, Croatia on the Adriatic, I noticed just as heading to dinner that a dramatic sunset was taking place to the west. I quickly went to my hotel room and grabbed my camera and headed to a ledge where I could see the sunset framed by some trees. I set my camera on a fast shutter speed (1/1000 second) with and used my 70-200mm lens at about 90mm. The photo turned out nicely, but I realized that the clouds around the sun were making it look almost like something on a distant planet. So I took a second set of shots, with the exact same setting, but I changed lenses and shot at 500mm—an extreme telephoto shot. While I like both images, taken from the same spot with the same settings, each evokes a very different feeling.



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Silhouettes of trees, landscapes, city skylines, boats, mountains, and other objects can help accentuate a sunset. While staying on Venice’s Lido, which is a long peninsula with many small hotels and villas, that from the water taxi pier a lovely sunset occurred each evening over an island to the west. Just as the sun angled-down over the land, several trees were silhouetted in front of it. I got to the dock and set-up my shot early (a luxury I did not have in the photo in Croatia). When the sun was higher in the sky (as shown), I over-exposed the photo because as it sank lower on the horizon I knew the light would diminish—so I was guessing at about the right levels. I was shooting directly into the sun with a long telephoto lens (500mm), and at a fast shutter speed of 1/3200 second (the sun is very bright, even at sunset!).



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You have to observe carefully and be ready to move, since the sun doesn’t set directly down…it moves laterally, as well. I had to change my position on the pier a couple of times, to ensure the trees I wanted to silhouette were placed where I wanted them. Also, there were some buildings visible on the island, but they were below tree-level so in the silhouette they simply disappear. I shot in RAW+JPEG mode so that I would have plenty of tonality to crop, edit, and adjust later in ACDSee but be able to take a quick look at images in JPEG for reviewing and selecting prior to editing.



—Serge Timacheff

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“Not everybody trusts paintings but people believe photographs.”

2013-04-16 16:33:00 GMT

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Ansel Adams (1902-1984) was a photographer and environmentalist revered for his black-and-white landscape photographs, and his commitment to the conservation of those lands. Ansel Adams had a great long career as a nature photographer, here are some tidbits about him:

  • Over the course of 60 years Adams took many monochromatic photos in every National Park in the United States.
  • He gave up his dream of being a concert pianist to become a photographer.
  • His first book “Making a Photograph” was published in 1935 
  • Adams felt an intense commitment to promoting photography as a fine art.
  • His images became the symbols and icons of wild America.
  • He fought for new parks and wilderness areas, for the Wilderness Act, for wild Alaska and the Big Sur coast of central California, for the mighty redwoods, for endangered sea lions and sea otters, and for clean air and water. An advocate of balanced, restrained use of resources, Adams also fought relentlessly against overbuilt highways, billboards, and all manner of environmental mendacity and shortsightedness. Yet he invariably treated his opponents with respect and courtesy.
  • Adams was often criticized for failing to include humans or evidence of “humanity” in his landscape photographs.
  • Adams was ready for digital photography he once said “I believe the electronic image will be the next major advance. Such systems will have their own inherent and inescapable structural characteristics, and the artist and functional practitioner will again strive to comprehend and control them.”

Notes from Ansel Adams life were obtained from www.anseladams.com

Want to create your own stunning black and white images? Here’s a step-by-step how-to for ACDSee Pro 6:

You can create rich greyscale images when you can control the brightness of the red, green and blue channels, as well as the overall brightness. Use the Convert to Black and White tool to emphasize different areas or aspects of a photo, as well as alter its mood and tone.

If you hover your mouse over each slider and watch the effect on the small preview, it shows you which parts of the image will be affected by each channel. This helps to gauge the effect of each slider on the image.

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  1. In Edit mode, in the Color group, click Convert to Black & White.
  2. Do any of the following:
    • Drag the Percent Red slider to the left or right.
      The more red there is in a pixel, the more effect the red slider has on that pixel. The area of red in the picture is brightened or darkened more than other areas.
    • Drag the Percent Green slider to the left or right.
      The more green there is in a pixel, the more effect the green slider has on that pixel. The area of green in the picture is brightened or darkened more than other areas.
    • Drag the Percent Blue slider to the left or right.
      The more blue there is in a pixel, the more effect the blue slider has on that pixel. The area of blue in the picture is brightened or darkened more than other areas.
    • Drag the Percent Brightness slider to the right or left to brighten or darken the whole image.
    Hint - you can right-click the slider to reset the value to zero.

  3. Click Done to save your changes, or click Cancel to discard your changes and return to the Edit mode menu.
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Hint - you can use the Edit Brush to paint this effect onto specific areas of your image.
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Aperture, Speed & Sensitivity (Part 2)

2013-04-10 17:20:00 GMT

By ACDSee Guest Blogger & Professional Photographer Alexandra Pottier

After aperture, one of the three facts that make a good exposition in a picture is the shutter speed.

It is the time while the sensor is exposed to the light while the curtain is open. If we think of it as a window, it is the time while the window is open.

Usually, we express the shutter’s speed in seconds or fractions of a second.

A long exposure time, 1 sec for instance, exposes the sensor for a longer period of time. That is useful when there isn’t much light in the scene.

On the contrary, a short exposure time, 1/1000 sec, exposes the sensor very shortly to the light when there is a lot of it.

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Usual shutter speeds are : 1/2000, 1/1000, 1/500, 1/250, 1/125, 1/60, 1/30, 1/15, 1/8, ¼, ½, 1 second, up to 30 seconds. Then you have the Bulb mode, where you can decide for yourself the length of the time of aperture.

As you can see the numbers are equally proportional. When you double the exposure time (from 1/250 to 1/125 ) you let twice as much light in.

Of course the speed has consequences on the final result of the picture. The use of a fast shutter speed (1/1000s sec) will freeze the action even if the subject is moving.

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The use of a slow speed (1 sec) will show an amount of panning.

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The shutter speed must be chosen according to four criteria which are :

The effect you want for your picture. Frozen action or fuzzy yarn.
The movement’s speed. The photographer’s stability is important, below 1/60s, it is better to use a tripod, because the human, even very still, suffers from micro-movements, and the result is a fuzzy picture.
The subject’s speed. The more the subject is moving, the more fuzz there will be. And vice versa.
The focal length. It is common to say that it is better to use a focal length ratio 1/focal length. For example, if you are using a 200mm lens, it is better not to go under 1/200 sec.

If you want to keep the same exposition while changing the shutter speed, you’ll have to change the aperture increasely.

To change the shutter speed, there are two options : use the manual mode or the S mode. This way, you get to choose the speed you want for your camera.
To practice, you can start with the focal length rule (1/focal length) then you can try on different moving subjects, a walking person, a cyclist, a jogger, etc…

Have fun!

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Adding a Watermark to Your Image

2013-03-28 16:46:34 GMT

Why should you watermark your photos? Not only does it protect you, but in the world of digital images and social media it’s a subtle way to promote yourself or photography business.

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Here’s step-by-step instructions how to add a watermark to your images in ACDSee Pro 6:

  1. In Edit mode, in the Add group, click Watermark. A watermark displays in the center of the photo by default.
  2. Click Browse, select your watermark, and then click Open.
  3. Click and drag the watermark to reposition it anywhere on your image, or click Center to quickly position the watermark image in the center.
  4. Drag the marquee handles to resize the watermark image.
  5. Select Maintain aspect ratio when resizing if you want to resize the watermark image without distorting it.
  6. Select Apply Alpha Channel to apply the alpha channel if it is present in the watermark.
  7. Select Apply Transparency to make a color in the watermark transparent.
    The default color is white. You can enter the RGB value of the color. If you don’t know the RGB value, move your mouse over the watermark preview thumbnail on the Edit panel, and then click on the color that you want to make transparent.
  8. Select an option from the Blending Mode drop-down list to specify how you want the watermark to blend into the underlying image.
  9. Drag the Opacity slider to specify the transparency of the watermark.
  10. Do one of the following:
    • Click Apply to add the watermark to your image, and keep the Watermark tool open.
    • Click Done to add the watermark to your image, and leave the tool.
    • Click Cancel to discard your changes and leave the tool.

You can also save your settings as a preset for future use.

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